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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.